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Hardcover 262 pages $39.95 |
Pure Dessert by Alice Medrich
Award winning cookbook author and dessert doyenne, Alice Medrich, has penned yet another evocative and enticing cookbook, Pure Dessert.
In this beautifully photographed volume, Medrich offers recipes that celebrate simple, uncomplicated flavors. Recipes are grouped by key flavoring ingredients rather than by traditional dessert categories. Innovative sections such as “the Flavors of Herbs and Spices, Flowers and Leaves” and “the Flavors of Wine, Beer and Spirits” challenge one to experiment with non-traditional dessert flavors. While chapters featuring milk and honey and sugar highlight frequently overlooked flavoring elements.
In the Flavors of Fruit chapter, Medrich includes a recipe for a rich, moist dried fruit and nut cake perfect to serve with a cheese tray or afternoon tea. What a wonderful recipe to include dried pears, apricots and plums from the Okanagan and locally grown walnuts from Agassiz.
Recipes are uncomplicated and often require basic pantry ingredients. Although seemingly simple, recipes may be dressed up to impress guests or served unadorned to highlight their pure flavors.
Medrich writes in a friendly, approachable tone and sprinkles helpful tips and explanations throughout the book. Of particular interest are explanations of general baking tips and the importance of quality ingredients.
Pure Dessert is inspiring and innovative enough to entertain experienced bakers and cooks. Yet it is simple and basic enough for the novice home chef. This would be a welcome addition to any dessert lover’s cookbook collection.
Reviewed by Barb Wong
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Hardcover 324 pages $43.95 |
Vegetable Harvest By Patricia Wells
The inspiration for Vegetable Harvest came to Patricia Wells when she was photographing vegetable side dishes for her ninth cookbook, The Provence Cookbook, at her home in Provence. The vegetables looked “so natural, so perfect” that she knew instantly that “vegetables would be the topic of my next book.”
This happy accident has forever changed the way Wells, a 25-year resident of France, looks at vegetables. Now they’re the stars—she’s tripled their presence on her plate, and meat is the accompaniment.
Her recipes will bring a new appreciation of vegetables to anyone who loves food. In Vegetable Harvest, Wells details dozens of dishes using ingredients from arugula (once banned in convent gardens because of its suspected aphrodisiac qualities) to zucchini, giving several recipes for each. The dishes are healthy too—nutrition info accompanies each and wine recommendations too. Wells writes, “As well as pleasure, food is fuel, so let’s put the best fuel we can into our bodies.”
Featured sections range from appetisers and starters, and season-spanning salads and soups, to breads and desserts. Highlights? Addictive toasted, seasoned pumpkin seeds, cherry tomato and black olive salad, curried beet soup, six-minute fresh cod steamed on a bed of rosemary, sautéed quail with mustard and fennel, pea and mint risotto, eggplant daube, potato gratin, and fresh figs on rosemary skewers are among the recipes on our to-cook list.
A Vegetable Harvest is a must for any modern cook. Note: The gorgeous photos are Wells’ work too.
Reviewed by Judith Lane, food and wine writer
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Hardcover 262 pages $34.50 |
A Twist of the Wrist By Nancy Silverton
Not long after I’d moved away to university, I asked my mother for her Christmas fruitcake recipe. She told me to by a fruitcake mix and add lots of dried fruit and nuts. It was then I realized that much of her cooking—except for Sunday roasts was from boxes and cans. It wasn’t half bad and today I still make her much loved chocolate wafer–whipped cream log.
Reading acclaimed California chef (Campanile, La Brea Bakery) Nancy Silverton’s A Twist of the Wrist sparked memories. Silverton, a mom and found herself feeling guilty using already prepared foods like supermarket rotisserie chicken to make quick family suppers after long days on the job but quickly realized that today’s abundance of jarred, canned, bottled foods are far superior to those available a decade or two ago.
Silverton’s goal in A Twist of the Wrist is to show people how to make satisfying and healthy meals with a minimum of time and effort. Not wanting to be dissed by colleagues, she got the likes of Mario Batali, Gale Grand, Ruth Reichl, and others to contribute their favourite not-from-scratch recipes.
In addition to fabulous entrée-sized salads, soups and frittatas, there are full-on short cut meals, appies, and desserts too. The chicken salad—using market rotisserie chicken, would make anyone’s day as would the glorious Niçoise salad, a bacon, onion and Gruyère frittata, lamb meatballs with spicy garbanzo beans, or Ruth Reichl’s blueberry pie.
There’s a great ‘Twist Essentials’ section describing various products, her personal preferences, and other quality tidbits. Mom would approve.
Reviewed by Judith Lane, food and wine writer
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Hardcover 234 pages $35.50 |
A Ligurian Kitchen: Recipes and Tales from the Italian Riviera By Laura Giannatempo
Author Laura Giannatempo has penned a delicious and evocative cookbook memoir of Liguria, the Italian Riviera. Italian-born Giannatempo currently lives in New York City but returns to Bonassola near Cinque Terre where she spent many summers as she was growing up. She comes from a family of very good cooks, learning from her grandmother, mother, and aunts.
In A Ligurian Kitchen: Recipes and Tales from the Italian Riviera, Giannatempo shares her memories of cooking and of Bonassola, which make for a captivating read and tasty eating.
The food of Liguria, shared through these recipes, is like Ligurian life—uncomplicated and infinitely satisfying. And the uncomplicated recipes are a mirror of the land. The book explores antipasti via flavourful dishes like clam, scallop, and oyster crostini, dandelion greens with crescenza cheese pie, and variations of focaccia and farinata (flatbreads). Each recipe has an accompanying anecdote or story, enhancing enjoyment.
Soups and pastas are eminently satisfying: Sylvana’s chunky seafood soup is a must try, ditto seafood risotto with clams, mussels and shrimp, and butter lettuce rolls in warm veal broth. (A useful section details a six-pack of broths.) Seafood recipes dominate with red snapper in parchment, and deep-fried sardines, while meats get their due—lamb fricassee with artichokes, wine-braised rabbit with black olives—and desserts run the gamut form almond cake with fresh figs to a chocolate gelato parfait with fresh summer fruit.
A Ligurian Kitchen will engage and delight cooks and travellers alike with its winsome spirit and very good eating. Buon appetito.
Reviewed by Judith Lane, food and wine writer
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Hardcover 292 pages $34.50 |
The Sweet Spot: Asian-Inspired Dishes By Pichet Ong
When Westerners think of Asian desserts, the ubiquitous fortune and almond cookies spring to mind or perhaps a sweet red beans soup. Traditionally in Asian culture, dessert’s culinary role is to comfort, excite, and indulge.
In The Sweet Spot: Asian-Inspired Dishes, renowned New York pastry chef Pichet Ong share his recipes for desserts that he’s been making at top city restaurants, and more recently at his own. Be prepared for sensational and exotic taste treats that feature traditional Asian desserts with surprising twists and classic American sweet favourites zinged up with Asian ingredients. Ong uses very little butter and sugar, allowing vibrant fruit flavours to shine.
Ong created his recipes in a home kitchen using supermarket ingredients, using no special equipment, which means that any one can have a go at these treats. Ong prefaces his recipes with sections on equipment and ingredients. His number one tool? His hands; beyond this, it’s simple basic equipment.
From marvelous cakes and cookies to pies, tarts, puddings, candy and frozen treats and drinks, you’ll find much to enjoy like the best ever banana bread (a lucky accident), a fab steamed pandan layer cake, yuzu jelly roll, Grand Marnier tofu cheesecake, the best ever peanut butter cookies, chocolate fortune cookies and a sublime jasmine rice pudding. There are desserts galore to tempt every sweet eater.
Drinks like tapioca (bubble) tea, iced ”dragon eyes” tea, and a creamy avocado milkshake are on the to-do-soon list.
What we love most about The Sweet Spot is that minimum effort produces maximum results. Enjoy.
Reviewed by Judith Lane, food and wine writer
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Hardcover 185 pages $49.00 |
Wild Weed Pie: A Lifetime of Recipes By Janni Kyritsis
Author Janni Kyritsis, a former “sparkie” (that’s Oz-talk for electrician), is a self-taught Greek-born cook who learned English by reading cookbooks. He soon deserted his tradesman-lifestyle to learn cooking with a few top Australian chefs. Today he is a celebrated, much–loved chef, currently on hiatus.
Wild Weed Pie: A Lifetime of Recipes is a true delight, and will spark curiosity, creativity and more than a little hunger in anyone who riffles through its pages. Kyritsis hooked me early on when he stated that his favourite tool isn’t his chef’s knife but his indispensable pasta machine that he uses to make filo, grissini, flatbread, pastry, and even Chinese pancakes. This is no ordinary cookbook, no ordinary chef.
Most of his recipes require some time, but they are not above an enthusiastic cook’s level. In typical Oz style, the book is loaded with Asian influences, and global ones too—French and Greek are prominent.
Some recipes that have turned our heads include anchovies deep fried in gremolata crumbs, fasolada, risotto balls with baked green tomatoes, rock lobster lettuce rolls, braised grilled octopus and all of the lamb dishes. Desserts are a must. The gold leaf chocolate pyramid will take patience but is worth the effort; coffee cardamom and hazelnut custards are swoon inducing. Ditto the heavenly passion fruit floating islands.
The gorgeous photography in Wild Weed Pie: A Lifetime of Recipes accents Kyritsis’ recipes. Read. Cook. Eat. Inspiration doesn’t get much better than this.
Reviewed by Judith Lane, food and wine writer
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Hardcover 447 pages $38.95 (marked down from $41.95) |
Cook with Jamie: My Guide to Making You a Better Cook By Jamie Oliver
Is his seventh book, Cook with Jamie: My Guide to Making You a Better Cook, Jamie Oliver’s best cookbook to date? Quite possibly.
It’s an engaging tour through the basics of food, shopping for the best ingredients available and cooking up simple, brightly flavourful dishes. In some ways Cook with Jamie is a return to basics, completely influenced by his experiences with the young people that he’s taught at Fifteen Restaurant.
Never cooked before? (Some adults don’t get started until well into middle age.) Want to master simple, effective cooking techniques, or simply gain a new perspective and put a lot more enjoyment into preparing meals? Jamie’s intent is to impart “some of the basics of modern-day cookery, to encourage you to try something new, to get to grips with a handful of simple techniques, to make informed choices.”
Extras tossed into this easy mix include equally simple food and wine pairing tips, what cooking equipment you’ll need, food safety tips, and handy info on spices and what to do with them. Recipes are approachable and fresh: Dig into a Proper Tomato Salad, Lovely Crab Linguine, Asparagus, Mint, and Lemon Risotto, a brilliant Spatchcocked Chicken, Pan-fried Scallops with Lentils, and an easy-peasy Pear Tarte Tatin.
Cook with Jamie is guaranteed to light fires in new cooks and spark passion in long-time cooks who need a fresh approach. Highly recommended.
Reviewed by Judith Lane, food and wine writer
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Hardcover 319 pages $45.00 |
In Search of Perfection: Reinventing Kitchen Classics By Heston Blumenthal
Fans of the much lauded and near-legendary Brit, Heston Blumenthal (of internationally acclaimed The Fat Duck resto) will revel in In Search of Perfection: Reinventing Kitchen Classics, devouring every page as they follow this inventive chef in his global quest for the best version of eight everyday dishes.
His journey takes him to many parts of the world in search of the ultimate roast chicken and roast potatoes, the best chocolate, fish and chips, Black Forest cake and more culinary classics.
Blumenthal honours the small producers—artisans all—who have made it their life’s work to make the best sausages, raise the best chickens, and the like. They inspire him to explore ‘food perfection’, which he considers “a dish with history, a meal that means something to us and evokes fond memories.” In the eight Blumenthal’s identified, he exhaustively discusses, tests and refines each recipe and each ingredient until he hits on the “perfect” version of each, in effect distilling “the essence of our culinary heritage” through them. The accompanying photos will put you in the picture as they beautifully illustrate Blumenthal’s quest In Search of Perfection: Reinventing Kitchen Classics. Read, learn, enjoy, cook.
*Bonus: enormously useful conversion tables that intelligently convert mls to ounces to teaspoons to pints, separating volume and weight, liquids and dry ingredients and so on. Simple stuff, but rare to find it laid out precisely so it’s all there at a glance.
Reviewed by Judith Lane, food and wine writer
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Hardcover 304 pages $40.95 |
One Spice, Two Spice By Floyd Cardoz
In One Spice, Two Spice, Chef Floyd Cardoz of New York’s popular Tabla Restaurant, presents a colourful collection of recipes inspired by food’s intrinsic significance in Indian culture and adds his own unique twist: American food (ingredients), Indian flavours.
Raised in Bombay, Cardoz who spent summers in Goa, a former Portuguese colony, began cooking as child and says that putting different cultures together on a plate (Portuguese and Indian) was "a way of life" for his family and has influenced the way he cooks today.
Cardoz’s innovative recipes marry local ingredients like duck, lamb, and steak with prime Indian spices of cumin, mustard seeds, ginger, chilies, and fenugreek seeds and more with irresistibly delicious results. Recipes are arranged in 10 sections, organized by food type such as soups, condiments (integral in Indian cooking), vegetables, and chicken. Most importantly he demystifies Indian spices explaining how to buy, store and cook them, and grind and dry toast—everything to realize their flavour and potential.
Once you’re acquainted with Cardoz's perspective you’ll easily integrate these new flavours and spice profiles into everyday meals. Imagine if you will, skate with tartar sauce, crisp pan-fried black pepper shrimp, plump sea scallops in a satiny sweet-sour glaze, and duck in an aromatic orange curry—all of which can be made in a trice.
One Spice, Two Spice closes with a detailed glossary that runs the gamut from ajwain and Nigella seeds to tumeric. Strongly recommended for most collections.
Reviewed by Judith Lane, food and wine writer
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Hardcover 224 pages $69.95 |
Season to Taste By Liam Tomlin Photography by Geoff Lung
Irish chef Liam Tomlin has cooked in singular kitchens in Ireland and Europe and Australia where he opened his own Sydney resto, the highly respected Banc. Here he won numerous awards including Restaurant of the Year, and Best Chef to name a few before moving to South Africa where he’s currently a restaurant consultant and food editor.
Beautifully photographed, Season to Taste celebrates Tomlin’s creativity and philosophy for his style of informed modern French cooking: “to remove rather than to add, concentrating on the importance of ingredients of the highest quality with freshness and flavour intact.”
His recipes are simple and concise and use impeccable ingredients—Tomlin has close ties with and enormous respect for his artisan suppliers (take note and cultivate your own local butcher, fishmonger, greengrocer, etc.).
Season to Taste is a joy to read and to cook from. Ingredient-driven chapters are ranging from Tomatoes and Mushrooms, to Berries and Citrus. Each simple-to-follow recipe—delicious Caramelised Scallops with Sautéed Ceps Mushrooms, Loin of Venison with Braised Red Cabbage and Macerated Figs, and Lime Bavarois with Citrus Salad to name a few, is highlighted by exquisite photography. Bonuses include an excellent conversion chart, a section with 91 basic recipes like blackberry vinegar, tapenade, and flavoured oils, and a section describing basic techniques like making confit, concassée, and more. All in all, Season to Taste is a visual, gustatory, and sensual feast.
Reviewed by Judith Lane, food and wine writer
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Soft cover 240 pages $35.00
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The Cocktail Chef: Entertaining in Style By Dinah Koo and Janice Poon, with wine notes by John Szabo
This is a serious cocktail party book that is designed for both the seasoned and neophyte party-giver. While it obviously has much to inspire experienced hosts, it has the potential to overwhelm novices with too much information and elaborate detail. Bear with it, though, as it has all the basics required for the simplest of cocktail parties, and the fancy, Martha Stewart-type touches can be saved for future events.
The book begins with a very good section on bartending. It has a few recipes, some basic wine information, and short blurbs on presenting cheeseboards and raw bars. If you are planning your first small cocktail party, you can begin and end with this first chapter, as it gives enough detail to throw a very nice, simple event for 10-15 guests. The slightly more ambitious may wish to prepare one or more of the eight appetizers presented in the second chapter.
The real meat of the book comes at the beginning of Part III where, in less than ten pages, the authors present the building blocks of a successful cocktail party. This section answers the tough questions party-givers ask: How much food do I need? How much booze do I need? How many glasses do I need? What am I missing? It also has useful tips on setting the mood for the party, making the food and drink work, and managing a variety of common party mishaps from spills to plugged toilets. (Beginners, and most of the rest of us, can skip the suggestion to hire “sleek white loveseats and side tables and place them in the tent under swags of white organza” – pass that suggestion on to the professional planner for the big budget, glam wedding.)
The remainder of the book has detailed plans for seven different, themed parties, ranging in size from 2 to 60 guests and in style from a Casanova Seduction to a serious wine-tasting evening. Detailed preparation schedules, menus and recipes for food and drink, suggestions for décor and music, and John Szabo’s brief and relevant wine and beer ideas make these user-friendly and foolproof. And even if you aren’t good at following the detailed directions to the letter, this part of the book will inspire your own great ideas and provide lots of delicious recipes for cocktails and nibblies.
This is a very useful addition to the current collection of cocktail party books, if only for the excellent reference section it provides up to page 71. It is packed with suggestions on how to make your guests happy, comfortable and well fed and “watered.” My only caution is for beginners: when starting out, don’t get bogged down in the refinements until you master the basics. Your guests will have a better time if you keep it simple and have a good time yourself – and you can always order in sushi if everyone hangs around for dinner.
Reviewed by Adrienne O'Callaghan
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Hard cover 431 pages $42.00 |
Apples for Jam: Recipes for Life By Tessa Kiros
Apples for Jam may well be the cookbook equivalent of a chick-flick. If the well-scuffed, red Mary Janes (you remember those strap and buckle, round-toed shoes for little girls, don’t you?) on the pink-themed cover don’t suck you in right away, Kiros’ introduction will. She tells us that “this is food for families, for young people, for old people, for children, for the child in all … for life.” It is a bit like a recipe autobiography: recipes from her own childhood and those she now cooks for her own children, threaded together with sweet, stream-of-consciousness memory vignettes.
The book is quirkily organized by colour. The Red chapter has cranberry syrup, tomato risotto, berry and buttermilk cake and strawberry jam. Yellow has lemonade and lots of nice eggy dishes. Pink has beetroot gnocchi, pomegranate sorbet and, of course, tiny cakes with pink icing. The Monochrome, Stripes and Multicolour chapters are full of obvious and not-so-obvious choices – a delight to peruse.
The food is truly as Kiros describes it: for families. The recipes are simple, honest and inspired by Kiros’ eclectic background (she was born in London, England to a Finnish mother and Greek-Cypriot father, lived in South Africa from ages 4 through 18, and now lives with her Italian husband and two daughters in Tuscany). The food is a bit old-fashioned or, should I say, timeless and it all looks like it would be equally popular with little ones and grannies.
Apples for Jam is copiously illustrated throughout, with luscious, real food photos, family snapshots, and kids’ drawings. It is a book to comfort and console us amidst the busy-ness of our days, and to remind us that life is about the journey. It encourages us to be present to the joys of the family table (whatever that looks like for you), and to eat the best food we can. It is the perfect gift for your best girlfriend, a bridal or baby shower, for mothers of every age, or for yourself – to keep beside the bed whenever it’s not getting food-stained in the kitchen.
Reviewed by Adrienne O'Callaghan
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Hard cover 440 pages $59.95 |
The Food I Love: Beautiful, Simple Food to Cook at Home By Neil Perry
Neil Perry is a highly successful Australian chef: Chef/owner of the 17 year-old, landmark Sydney restaurant, Rockpool; food consultant for Qantas airlines; producer of a fresh food line for Woolworths (the Aussie version of Marks and Spencer); and cookbook author and TV personality. His style is fresh, bold and world-inspired. This, his third book, combines Perry’s style with the impeccable technique that propelled him to chef stardom.
The first notable feature of The Food I Love is its physical beauty. It is chunky and elegantly monochromatic. The quality of its paper is heavy and smooth and the photography is spare, with only the sumptuous, unfussy food providing colour. It’s a book that feels good to hold.
Digging a little deeper reveals some of Perry’s many culinary gifts. His technique descriptions are thorough and comprehensible. His advice on seasoning (probably the most important skill that separates professional from amateur cooks) begins in the introduction and threads throughout the various sections of the book. His recipes are simple and boldly flavoured and most have a list of suggested accompaniments to assist in meal planning.
Although this is an Australian book, the measurements are given in metric, Imperial, and volumetric formats so the issue of conversion does not arise. You will notice, however, that there are some unusual ingredients, especially in the fish and seafood section. Fortunately, Perry has included detailed descriptions of the fish and seafood in his recipe headnotes, simplifying the selection of local substitutes.
The Food I Love is Perry’s magnum opus: the culmination of his many years of cooking, eating and writing. It is truly a book for home cooks, not a chef showing what he can do in a restaurant setting. It is a book to both cook from and read. Indeed, there is some very fine food prose in this volume, some of it explanatory, some informational, and some philosophical. It is one to enliven and refresh your own repertoire, or to give to a novice cook too stylish for The Joy of Cooking or How to Cook Everything.
Reviewed by Adrienne O'Callaghan
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Hard cover 288 pages $45.00 |
Off Duty: The World’s Greatest Chefs Cook at Home By various contributors
Off Duty is a benefit book for The Nicholls Spinal Injury Foundation, an organization created by chef David Nicholls to raise money for spinal cord injury research and treatment. Nicholls is the executive chef at London’s Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park Hotel and the father of Daniel who, at the age of 19 in 2003, sustained a broken neck and is paralysed from the arms down. All proceeds from the sale of Off Duty go to the foundation.
This book is David Nicholls’ brainchild and, in order to make it happen, he enlisted the help of forty-seven of his most illustrious colleagues from the UK, the US and Australia. Each chef was asked to give an interview and submit three recipes that they would cook at home: a starter, main course, and sweet. So, including Nicholls’ own submission, we end up with 144 recipes from some of the world’s top culinary minds including Gordon Ramsay, Thomas Keller, Michel Richard and Neil Perry.
I find the interviews as interesting as the recipes, as they give little bursts of insight into what makes these guys tick. Also, the same questions are posed to each chef which makes comparisons easy and fascinating. For instance, several of the chefs when asked about kitchen secrets say they have none; some say they need to share their secrets with staff to run a successful kitchen and some say sharing helps them come up with new ideas. Other recurring themes are the importance of top quality ingredients; sharp knives; the need for simplicity, especially in the home kitchen; and chefs’ widespread affection for fine red wine.
The Roux empire is featured, with brothers Michel and Albert looking rather mature, and their sons Alain and Michel Jr. appearing to capably take up their fathers’ mantles. I laughed when I read that Albert’s favourite junk food is a Big Mac – not one of the other chefs confessed a McDonald’s habit, though Thomas Keller fessed up to Reese’s Peanut Butter cups and Snickers bars.
As expected, the chefs are predominantly male. Rose Grey and Ruth Rogers of London’s River Café, and Angela Hartnett of Angela Hartnett at the Connaught are the only female restaurant chefs. Nigella Lawson and Delia Smith, whose careers have largely been in food writing, are also profiled.
Off Duty is a very fine compilation of chefs’ recipes. It is an excellent read for those interested in the chef psyche, and a grand inspiration for ambitious home cooks. It has an attractive, legible layout, the chef photos are great, and the food shots make me hungry.
Reviewed by Adrienne O'Callaghan
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Hard cover 255 pages $29.95 |
Tasting Club: Gathering Together to Share and Savor Your Favorite Tastes By Dina Cheney
Well, this is a novel idea for a food book and a neat way to entertain. With Tasting Club, author Dina Cheney gives detailed instructions for hosting ten different tastings, suitable for events on their own or as part of a larger special occasion. Well researched and user friendly, it makes a fine read and a good springboard for gastronomic and social adventure.
The ten tastings range from wine to chocolate, tea, and cured meats. Each chapter is similarly formatted: succinct information on the featured ingredient; sourcing the ingredient; choosing accompaniments for the tasting; menu suggestions and recipes; detailed tips to organize the tasting; instructions for personal tasting; a tasting grid to copy so guests can record impressions of each sample; and an ingredient glossary. Sidebars offer information on ingredient storage, classification and other ingredient-specific details.
On first blush, all this may seem a bit overwhelming, serious and not at all conducive to pleasant social exchange and fun. Cheney, however, is careful to explain her philosophy of tastings early in the book, assuring the reader that professional tasting is something quite apart from her intention. She encourages non-blind tastings where guests know the identity of each sample throughout the event, advising us to leave the blind tastings to the pros. She also has a nice list of suggested events involving tastings: a chocolate tasting for a bridal shower or company team-building session, a beer tasting at a football or poker party, or a combined honey and apple tasting for Rosh Hashanah. Some of the ingredients, such as cheese or wine, would work well in a longer, full-meal, evening format whereas a tea or honey tasting might work better as an afternoon event or as a brief part of a special occasion party.
Tasting Club is a clever, compact reference book of sorts. It’s packed with information and, for bibliography junkies like myself, has a wonderful, ingredient-specific list for further reading. It encourages the exploration of food and palate in a non-threatening, social context, giving us permission to play with our food in a whole new way.
Reviewed by Adrienne O'Callaghan
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Soft cover 230 pages $24.95 |
Vegetable Soups from Deborah Madison’s Kitchen By Deborah Madison
Deborah Madison writes really good vegetarian cookbooks. Deservedly, her books have consistently been nominated for and often won awards. Her recipes are simple and spot-on; her background information is well researched and succinctly written; her books are attractive and, especially the more recent ones, beautifully illustrated with inspiring photographs; and, most importantly, her food tastes very, very good.
Her latest, Vegetable Soups, dips into a well-loved and oft-addressed area: soup. As Madison says in her introduction, people respond to the mention of soup with oohs and aahs. There is something eternal and comforting about a bowl of soup, whether it’s a hearty winter chowder, a light broth, or a vibrant chilled puree. In typical fashion, Madison gives her personal touch to a common subject.
The book is organized semi-seasonally. Chapters on broths, bean and lentil soups, bread and grain soups are followed by spring, summer, fall and winter soup sections. Madison employs a wonderful range of vegetables in her soups, and cooks them in various ways to achieve her desired result. Her autumn chapter, for instance, is all roasted vegetable soups. She is influenced by world cuisine, using ingredients and techniques from Asia, Europe, Mexico and North America. Some of my favourite recipes in this and her other books are inspired by the cuisine of the American Southwest, where Madison has lived for many years.
Though there are many soup books available, and some good vegetarian ones, this one is sure to earn its space on the kitchen shelf, whether you’re looking to use more unusual vegetables, try new grains or beans, or simply eat more healthy soup.
Reviewed by Adrienne O'Callaghan
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Hard cover 516 pages $48.50 |
Kitchen Sense: More than 600 Recipes to Make You a Great Home Cook By Mitchell Davis
Mitchell Davis, vice president and director of communications at the James Beard Foundation in New York, has written some excellent but very different cookbooks before this one. Cook Something was designed to get the young and hip into the kitchen and cooking. It contains a mix of comfort food familiar to young folks from their moms’ kitchens and modern, approachable dishes easy enough for everyday but fancy enough to serve friends. In contrast, Foie Gras is a collection of chefs’ recipes supported by an excellent history of this prized ingredient. It is geared to the most dedicated of amateur cooks, and to professionals.
A self described “equal opportunity eater” who loves food from the simplest grilled cheese sandwich to the most elaborate restaurant tour-de-force, Davis brings us the sum of his affections in Kitchen Sense. Understanding the home cook’s diverse needs – to sometimes eat well and simply, and to sometimes impress guests, he gives a wide variety of recipes supported by concise passages on technique where applicable. “The Ultimate Macaroni and Cheese” will get you through the harshest carb craving and, to achieve hero status with your most discerning company, walk yourself through the very fine instructions for roasting a standing rib of beef.
What set this book apart from other general cookbooks are Davis’ distinctive, friendly and informative voice, his personal recipe style inspired by his childhood and adult family tables, and a good smattering of up-to-date environmental and health information and opinion. In addition, sidebars entitled “Basics” and “Kitchen Sense” provide supporting information on selecting products, fundamental cooking techniques, and handy culinary tips. Each recipe in the book is followed by preparation and cooking times plus advance preparation and leftover management tips. At the end of the book is a section detailing the author’s understanding of certain culinary terms and recipe vocabulary (it’s useful to know what an author means by a “medium” tomato). Also included are a brief glossary of culinary techniques and a selective bibliography of cookbooks, organized by category. Kitchen Sense is a good basic book, well suited to the beginner and fine inspiration for the more seasoned cook.
Reviewed by Adrienne O'Callaghan
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Hard cover 160 pages $39.95
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Danks Street Depot By Jared Ingersoll
Not just another chef-y book, not just another Aussie book, the Danks Street Depot cookbook is a snapshot of one of Australia's hippest restaurants. Located in the once industrial Sydney suburb of Waterloo, Danks Street Depot was opened in 2002 by husband and wife team, Jared Ingersoll and Melanie Starr. A 2005 expansion increased seating capacity and added a smart cocktail bar, lauded by Vogue Australia as a “must” when visiting New South Wales. Daily breakfast, lunch and dinner menus stay abreast of the ever-changing array of market produce.
The Danks Street Depot cookbook is an understated celebration of the seasonal, the local and the simply prepared. This collection of some of Ingersoll’s favourite recipes from his professional and home kitchens departs from the current Aussie trend toward strong Pan-Asian influence. The recipes are earthy, straightforward, and deeply steeped in European technique and tradition. They are all do-able in the home kitchen, and Ingersoll’s headnotes reflect his openness to local and seasonal availability of ingredients. This is food to be cooked at home and shared with friends and family, miles away from the oft-rarefied world of professional cooking.
Ingersoll has a confident hand with the classics, imprinting his personal style with recipes such as Cauliflower and Caper Tapenade. He succinctly teaches important techniques with the likes of his trio of Salt-baked Salmon, Chicken, and Lamb. His one foray into the flavours of India (Lamb Shoulder and Cardamom Curry) has a rather complex curry base, followed by a long but largely unattended cooking process, a characteristically simple presentation and utterly mouthwatering results. The dessert chapter is short, sweet, and largely fruit based. This is a grounded, cook-friendly book for farmers’ market junkies, Oz-ophiles, and classicists seeking inspiration.
Reviewed by Adrienne O'Callaghan
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Soft cover 360 pages $38.95 |
Farmer John’s Cookbook: The Real Dirt on Vegetables By Farmer John Peterson and Angelic Organics
Author, John Peterson known widely as Farmer John, is a colourful and dedicated lifelong farmer who runs Angelic Organics, one of the largest Community Supported Agriculture farms in the United States. Based in Illinois, Peterson is a leader in community supported farming, sustainability and biodynamics, and is helping to connect people with their food, their farmers, and healthful living.
In Farmer John’s Cookbook: The Real Dirt on Vegetables, Peterson takes readers out of the supermarkets and into the fields, connecting them to the land, the farm workers and the food itself, and healthier living. The cookbook is packed with seasonal recipes, stories, insights, and excerpts from his newsletters that go out to 1200 ‘shareholders’ (i.e. supporters of the farm who sign on for weekly produce deliveries and occasionally work on the farm). There are also nutritional tips, an Illustrated Vegetable Identification Guide, and tips on long term vegetable and herb storage.
The folksy cookbook’s 225 recipes are grouped by season and by vegetable (more than thirty-five) and is a compilation from his weekly newsletter that accompanies shareholders’ deliveries. There are cooking tips, serving suggestions and plenty of anecdotes strewn throughout that bring farm life ‘home’ to the reader.
With recipes that range from ginger miso soup, sweet potato pancakes, and arugula pesto to asparagus and white bean salad, I know that I’ll be visiting local farmers’ markets with new insights into local producers’ ways of life and to score veggies as they come into season to keep on cooking recipes from Farmer John’s Cookbook.
Reviewed by Judith Lane, food and wine writer
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Soft cover 184 pages $24.95
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As Fresh as it Gets: Everyday Recipes from the Tomato Fresh Food Café By Christian Gaudreault and Star Spilos
What do you get when you put a pastry chef – Star Spilos together with a farm-raised boy who started working in the restaurant biz with his dad at 11, flew helicopters for Apocalypse Now in Viet Nam, returned to Vancouver to cook and when an opportunity came up to buy Tomato Fresh Food Café in 2001 came up, jumped at it?
You get a marriage, a landmark Vancouver diner, Tomato Fresh Food Café (with roots that go back to 1947) that serves the freshest local food possible, an insight into the producers who raise the veggies, fruit, meat, fish and poultry, eggs and cheese that Gaudreault and Spilos with the assistance of chef James Campbell turn this fab bounty into great bistro fare complete with nightly blue plate specials. And a few years later, this book, As Fresh as it Gets: Everyday Recipes from the Tomato Fresh Food Café.
These simple ingredient-driven recipes run the gamut from flavour-packed tomato, chorizo and Manchego frittata, Christian’s summer salad with corn, arugula and feta, Tomato-style fish and chips, oven-roasted lemon-rosemary chicken (with a sandwich recipe for leftovers) and summer-roasted Roma tomatoes to name a few.
Desserts are obviously a strong point. And I can vouch that recipes for peach blueberry galette and oatmeal raisin scones will soon be staples in almost everyone’s repertoire.
If you don’t feel like cooking or you’re simply looking for inspiration, As Fresh as it Gets: Everyday Recipes from the Tomato Fresh Food Café will have you rethinking that mindset and enjoying every flavourful bite of the results.
Reviewed by Judith Lane, food and wine writer
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Hardcover 240 pages $65.00 |
The Lever House Cookbook By Dan Silverman and Joann Cianciulli
“Salt and pepper are the two most important ingredients in my kitchen. A good steak that isn’t seasoned with salt and pepper is just a piece of meat. Seasoned with salt and pepper, cooked to perfection, and then finished with a bit more salt to finish it off, the steak is elevated to a higher level.”
This passage is an integral part of Chef Dan Silverman’s philosophy and cooking style espoused in the very fine Lever House Cookbook. It’s also an insight into the simplicity and purity of Silverman’s recipes. And illustrates the seamless fit between chef and his restaurant that’s housed in an auditorium in the belly of Lever House, an iconic, landmark New York City building that dates to 1952, allegedly one of the greatest buildings of the twentieth century. Lever House Restaurant’s lack of windows enhances the dining experience, turning inward so that the focus is completely on the plate.
Silverman’s recipes are simple and straightforward enough that they’re as suitable for beginners as gourmands. While he’s adamant that you measure carefully to attain the desired results, he welcomes substitutions if required ingredients aren’t at their best … a firmly flexible cook.
Recipes run the gamut from raw recipes like white tuna tartar through appetizers to mains – halibut with roasted baby beets, hangar steak, and pan-seared veal chops, sides and a there’s a delicious section on desserts that includes a delectable chocolate icebox cake, and a sweet corn and peach trifle. The Lever House Cookbook is thoroughly satisfying, inspirational and has a prominent and permanent place in my kitchen.
Reviewed by Judith Lane, food and wine writer
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Hardcover
287 pages
$55 |
The Hungry Planet: What the World Eats
By Faith D’Aluisio and Peter Menzel
One of the most striking things about The Hungry Planet: What the World Eats is the table of contents page and its 30 photographs. Each picture shows a family with an entire week’s worth of food. It’s a simple and brilliant introduction to a remarkable book about how people from different cultures and social strata from around the world feed their families, and the similarities and differences. Also explored are the telling influences of geography, climate, industrialization and economics.
Writer Faith D’Aluisio and photojournalist Peter Menzel traveled to 24 countries, observing and photographing these 30 families as they went about their lives, farming, shopping, cooking and eating, giving us a powerful picture of how the world eats. The book is a snapshot in time of a world in transition: As countries’ economies improve, families move from poverty to prosperity, and diets increasingly include more processed foods.
Each family’s story delves into their daily lives and how they cook, and includes treasured recipes. Interspersed are chapters on cooking methods around the world, slow food, street food, and others that address food issues like diabetes, all accompanied by brilliant, expressive photos. Through D’Aluiso’s engaging writing style, we’re given an insightful look at what and how the world eats today.
The Hungry Planet: What the World Eats is a terrific ‘must read’, and deserves a place in our homes and classrooms.
Reviewed by Judith Lane, food and wine writer
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Soft cover
224 pages
$29.95 |
Marie Claire: Luscious, Simply Delicious Food
By Michele Cranston
“A cookery book has to make you hungry when you look at it” says author Michele Cranston in her latest Marie Claire cookbook Luscious, Simply Delicious Food, the fifth in the series. And this book does from the cover in.
Uncomplicated fresh food that is easy, great tasting and healthy is the premise behind the series and in Luscious, Cranston escapes to a tropical island, seducing readers and cooking with recipes that evoke serenity and idyllic indulgence that we can share through these pages.
Between the pages of Luscious, you’ll find evocative photography and recipes that take you to her island, each bright and flavourful. Chapters run the gamut from fruit – pineapple, coconut, and papaya to leafy vegetables, fish and shellfish to meats and fowl, and grains like rice, pasta and couscous.
Recipes are simple and flavourful, ingredients accessible. Fast favourites include roast pork with lemon grass and mango, mussels in tamarind broth, coconut snapper, crunchy noodle salad, a fragrant peach tart and lemongrass granita to name a few. Luscious, Simply Delicious Food is deliciously inspirational and far away from everyday.
Reviewed by Judith Lane, food and wine writer |
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Hardcover
304 pages
$45 |
Cheese, A Connoisseur’s Guide to the World’s Best
By Max McCalman & David Gibbons
Author Max McCalman and photographer David Gibbons have produced a glorious book – Cheese, A Connoisseur’s Guide to the World’s Best – that will have cheese lovers alternately swooning and salivating, the instants they part the creamy brie-coloured pages.
Gibbons has lovingly photographed each of his subjects, the book’s stars – more than 200 of the world’s best cheeses – against a cool, regal slab of dark marble.
“May the cheese be with us!” Max McCalman, maître fromager of the renowned New York restaurant, exhorts as he explains his 100-point rating scale that he’s used to qualify his subjects in this definitive reference. There are no stinkers here: the ratings range from 71 to 99 points.
In addition to mouthwatering good looks and tempting photos, each cheese is thoroughly described (they’re listed alphabetically) including type of milk, appearance, prime producers, and taste, and wine pairings are suggested. Simple and useful graphs show quality and strength at a glance.
Whether your tastes run from bleu to brie or you lean more to esoterics like Swiss Stanser Schaf Reblochon and Spanish Monte Enebro, Cheese, A Connoisseur’s Guide to the World’s Best will ensure tasteful explorations for years to come.
Reviewed by Judith Lane, food and wine writer
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Soft cover 132 pages $29.95 |
Whitewater Cooks By Shelley Adams
One of the coolest cookbooks that I’ve had the pleasure of cooking from is Whitewater Cooks, self-published by Shelley Adams, cook/owner of the Fresh Tracks Café at Whitewater Ski Resort that she owns with her husband near Nelson, BC. After years of customers begging and badgering her for recipes that were “as unattainable as a snowflake in July,” Adams has yielded and finally published them.
What’s got the locals and skiers hooked? Lots of over-the-top flavourful, healthy fare to fuel skiers and health-conscious locals alike. With the chops to back her up (movie catering and training at Paris’s famed L’école de Cuisine la Varenne), Adams’ casual gourmet fare is as colourful as it is delicious.
So what’s on the menu (and in Whitewater Cooks)? How about Whiskey Smoked Salmon Chowder, Lemony Lentil Soup, Pad Thai, Sri Lankan Chicken Curry, and a Greek Lamb Burger, plus dips, and even ‘Our Famous Burger Sauce’ that’s worth the price of the book alone. Sweets too from stellar cinnamon buns to Gail’s Famous Chocolate Chip Cookies.
The icing on the cake? Inspiring photos that capture the spirit of Fresh Tracks, Adams’ cooking and the beauty of the region.
Reviewed by Judith Lane, food and wine writer |
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Hardcover 319 pages $55.00 |
Jamie’s Italy By Jamie Oliver
“You know what? I should have been Italian. The truth is, when I’m in Italy I feel Italian.” Jamie Oliver is enthralled and seriously passionate about the country, its people and their cooking. In Jamie’s Italy, Oliver shares his deep affection for the diversity and regionality of the country and its cooks. Throughout his career, Oliver has constantly been inspired and influenced by Italian cooking and he recently realized a dream to drive the length and breadth of the country to discover the essence of the cuisine firsthand. In Jamie’s Italy (his sixth book) you’ll find his experiences and many of the recipes. There’s nothing typical about Jamie’s culinary wanderings as he roams the countryside in an ancient VW van – an off-the-beaten-path eating and touring guide – as he meets, cooks and eats with the regional villagers. While much of it is vegetarian, he has included the realities of villagers’ lives as they share recipes and cooking tips handed down through generations in Sicily, Tuscany, Puglia and more. From antipasti, street food like spaghetti fritters and pizza, chicken cacciatora, a possibly controversial section on meat, and sweets like Young Sara’s Torte. Insightful, inspiring photos of villagers, their lives and their food illuminate and are at the heart of Jamie’s Italy as much as Oliver’s delight in embracing this often hidden side, the roots of a country’s diverse cuisine.
Reviewed by Judith Lane, food and wine writer |
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Hardcover 447 pages $245 |
Chapeau! Canada, Les Grands Chefs Anton Fercher, Natalie Dufresne, Publishers/Editors
Quebecois photographer Anton Fercher has conceived and brilliantly executed an iconic portrait of Canadian chefs in Chapeau! Canada, Les Grands Chefs. This self-published book is finding a strong following among chefs, professional and novice, as well as serious foodies. Fercher chose his subjects carefully and traveled across Canada photographing them in their kitchens and restaurants. He just as carefully sought out a superior roster of cross-Canada writers to compose the literary portraits that successfully capture the essence of our country’s top chefs. Weighing in at a hefty 10 pounds, the book’s profiles and pictures portray 26 of the country’s top toques from Vancouver to Halifax including Vancouver’s inimitable Tojo, Rob Feenie of Lumiére, C’s Rob Clarke and tattooed Rob Belcham, and West’s David Hawksworth, Toronto’s Susur Lee and Mark McEwan, Halifax’s Maurizio Bertossi and Christrophe Lezeau, and many more. Chapeau! takes us inside their restaurants, and as well provides 200 of the chefs’ recipes, masterfully photographed, all tucked into 446 bilingual pages. The book is not only a stunning tribute from a top photographer to Canada’s best chefs but it’s a vital snapshot-in-time of culinary Canada.
Reviewed by Judith Lane, food and wine writer |
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Hardcover
192 pages
$65.00 |
Great Women Chefs of Europe
By Gilles Pudlowski
Portraits and profiles, recipes and respect – author and journalist Gilles Pudlowski honors 35 talented European women, chefs all, in an affectionate and telling book, Great Women Chefs of Europe.
Including three of the four Italians profiled, 20 of these accomplished women head up Michelin-starred properties.
The chefs are a diverse lot from ten European countries – from Brits Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers to Spain’s Elena Arzak and Olympe of France to name a few – and vary in style from simple country cook to celebrated trailblazers of the 1970s. All are united by passion, conviction and complete commitment to their work; all are enthusiastic and dedicated. One of the youngest women profiled, Chef Hélène Darroze of Parisian restaurant Hélène Darroze says it best as she sums up why these women are making their marks, “We women don’t have the same sensibility men do: we don’t look at things the same way; we don’t feel things the same way, and so our cuisine naturally reflects this … it’s more generous.”
Photographer Maurice Rougement captures the chefs, their restaurants and their culinary creations with insight and aplomb, complementing and enhancing this lively portrait of the Great Women Chefs of Europe. Pudlowski has dedicated a chapter to each chef who has also contributed a signature recipe, plus more in the wrap-up Chefs’ Notebook section.
A vivid and inspirational tribute to these great chefs, the book is also a unique tour of 35 of the best kitchens and restaurants of Europe.
Reviewed by Judith Lane, food and wine writer
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Hardcover
240 pages
$64.95 |
The Accidental Foodie By Neale Whitaker
Neale Whitaker, a Brit who has been a food editor for magazines in England and Australia, has pulled together a marvelous book – and absolute treat for the literate cook – called The Accidental Foodie.
He’s compiled interviews, anecdotes and recipes from 23 food heroes -- cooks, food writers, chefs and restaurateurs – that have influenced him over the course of his career as a food editor (Vogue Entertaining + Travel, Waitrose Food Illustrated, and ABC delicious) which was an accidental, if serendipitous choice of work (he is the accidental foodie of the book’s title). Whitaker’s ’heroes’ are united by “an extraordinary passion for food and to bring better food within reach for all of us.”
Some of the insightful individuals that he’s included are familiar names and faces like Jamie Oliver, Donna Hay, Terence Conran, Bill Granger, and Jill Dupleix while others like the fierce Cherry Ripe, Stephanie Alexander, the grand dame of Australian cooking, and bad boy Kevin Gould, are equally inspirational and ‘names’ in Australia.
Whitaker’s savoury ‘hero’ tales are accompanied by several personal recipes contributed by each and masterful photographs of the cooks and their dishes. A mouth-watering slashed roast lamb from Jill Dupleix, Cherry Ripe’s duck pho, Maggie Beer’s fig galette, Donna Hay’s simple and delicious studio pasta, and Alastair Hendy’s homey mushrooms on toast, Jamie Oliver’s sidecar and accompanying tales are riveting entertainment and very good eating.
Reviewed by Judith Lane, food and wine writer
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Hardcover
257 pages
$45.00 |
Bones: Recipes, History, & Lore By Jennifer McLagan
There’s an old truism that says “the nearer the bone, the sweeter the meat”. Any cook worth his or her salt will agree, and it holds true for fish and poultry too. As one who’s loved gnawing on bones since childhood – it was the best part of a meal and saved for last, I’m happy in adulthood in the knowledge that it’s perfectly acceptable to pick up a lamb chop in even the most polite of circles.
I knew at first sight that I was in for a rare treat when I sat down to read Jennifer McLagan’s Bones: Recipes, History, & Lore and no doubting I’d read it from cover to cover on the first go. It’s hard to believe that in today’s world, bones have fallen out of favour. Often everything is precut, de-boned and pre-packaged in the name of easy, quick-cooking convenience.
Not so in Bones. Everything boneless has been banished as McLagan traces a merry path through literature, history and folklore demonstrating our age-old and modern reliance on bones. The best part of all however is the collection of tasty, tantalizing recipes.
Chapter by chapter, meats, fish, game and poultry are given their due. There are charts so we know where the various cuts come from; there are recipes galore from stocks and consommés to braised beef shanks with red wine, Chinese-style oxtail, osso buco, spice roasted rack of ribs, chicken with forty cloves of garlic, skate with butter sauce and gloriously rich marrow bones. While dishes run the gamut from simple to elegant, all are inherently flavourful thanks to good bones.
Reviewed by Judith Lane, food and wine writer
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Hardcover
224 pages
$27.00
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Small Bites By Jennifer Joyce
Small Bites: tapas, sushi, mezze, antipasti, and other finger foods is a welcome addition to any busy person’s cookbook shelf. Author Jennifer Joyce Has compiled a collection of stylish and sumptuous dishes that are quick and easy to make, and light and healthy too.
Each recipe is lavishly illustrated with gorgeous photos that make you want to dive in and give a party on the spot. Either that, or cook a few recipes immediately – for testing purposes of course.
Whenever I open Small Bites, the book falls open naturally to the recipe for coconut shrimp with mango mint dipping sauce – simple and delicious and always a hit with guests. Other heavy hitters include the pork and shrimp dumplings with garlic oil, crab and gruyère natchos, sage and lemon meatballs and the chocolate-dipped strawberries and figs.
What’s particularly appealing about Joyce’s book is that each recipe features a ‘prepare ahead’ section and suggests other recipes to partner with it like tandoori chicken thighs, tomato and ginger soup, pea and shrimp samosas and seared cinnamon duck.
Small Bites roams through practically every cuisine on the globe mixing and matching with delicious results. Chapters cover off soups, dips, salads, skewers, meats, fish, vegetables and so on, right through to sweets. And Joyce very smartly suggests a variety of quick nibbles that you simply buy and arrange like sushi, marinated olives, caramelized nuts and the like, and scattered through out are useful tips and short cuts.
Party on.
Reviewed by Judith Lane, food and wine writer
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Hardcover
395 pages
$54.50
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The Kitchen Diaries By Nigel Slater
“Right food, right time, right place…this is the best recipe of all.” So begins Nigel Slater’s The Kitchen Diaries.
Slater, one of England’s award-winning and best-loved food writers and columnists, has put a year of his life between the pages of this sublime book. Beginning with New Year’s Day, he embarks on a very real voyage of daily discovery, shopping for ingredients, cooking them as they appear in his rounds of local markets, fishmonger, butcher and baker. His garden plays a part too, as he harvest and eats with the ebb and flow of the seasons. There’s something innately right about eating fresh picked beans or corn in summer, or an intensely flavoured aromatic stew on a blustery wet February evening.
Each chapter is a month and at the outset of each are recipes (over 300 in all) reflecting seasonal ingredients, seasonal cooking. In April when spring is just around the corner, Slater’s recipes are in tandem with the bright anticipation of the season like Thai fish cakes, spaghetti with new garlic, and orange sorbet. Later August bursts with warm ripe flavours in a salad of red mullet with lime and ginger, roast tomato soup with basil, and mozzarella with grilled fennel.
The photographs are lovely, homey and unstyled, and are shot the instant each dish was done, ready to be eaten – which it was – lending a lovely informality, placing it in the now.
Reviewed by Judith Lane, food and wine writer
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Softcover 146 pages $35.00
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Feenie’s Brunch – Lunch - Dinner By Rob Feenie
If you’ve been to Feenie’s, Chef Rob Feenie’s casual bistro next door to flagship Lumiere Restaurant, and liked what you’ve eaten, you’ll be able to recreate many things from the menu with Feenie’s Brunch – Lunch – Dinner. Bonus: the recipes for Rob’s Iron Chef America win over Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto. For Feenie’s Ontario fans, this will give you insight on the soon-to-open Feenie’s in Toronto.
I’ve found this, the third of Chef Feenie’s cookbooks, to be his most accessible. The recipes are simpler, the overall tone more relaxed. There’s a sense of lightness and fun permeating the entire book where you’ll find the famous Feenie’s Weenie as well as the flavourful and fabulous Feenie Burger complete with zingy relish recipe. I like too that Feenie exposes himself a little more in the intros to each recipe, sharing insights and anecdotes.
Besides the promised brunch, lunch and dinner recipes, the book delivers sections on starters, soups and salads, side dishes, and desserts as well as The Basics – stocks, broth, mayo, oils, syrups and doughs.
Some stand out recipes include a simple Portobello Mushroom and Prosciutto Salad, Leek and Goat Cheese Phyllo Tart, savoury Moules et Frites, Maple Glazed Pork Belly, Braised lamb Shank, Green Pea Risotto and sweet treats like Cherry Chocolate Clafoutis and Sticky Toffee Pudding with Pear Compote.
Gorgeous photos do their part to inspire, but this truly is a book to cook from.
Reviewed by Judith Lane, food and wine writer
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Hardcover 240 pages $70.00
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Olivier Roellinger’s Contemporary French Cuisine: Fifty Recipes Inspired by the Sea By Olivier Roellinger
This unique book, Olivier Roellinger’s Contemporary French Cuisine: Fifty Recipes Inspired by the Sea is ideally suited to professionals, ambitious amateurs or anyone inquisitive about the underpinnings of a professional kitchen. Throughout, Roellinger shares his spirit of adventure and deep love of the sea as he explores and creates food in pace with modern times yet harkening back to earlier eras when food was as much about simplicity and well being as it was about pleasure.
Michelin-starred French Chef Olivier Roellinger delivers a splendid book filled with gorgeous, layered imagery, stories, histories and recipes for 18 key ingredients, fusing all into an inspired and sophisticated whole. Throughout, he imbues everything with his love of the sea and his passion for travel, artfully intertwining local and exotic ingredients. The results are 53 innovative and flavourful recipes like Brill with Spiced Tomatoes; Queen Scallops with Vanilla Cauliflower Cream; Lobster Pieces, Pineapple, and Salted Butter; and Contrast and Harmony: Coffee, Chocolate, Curry.
Each chapter opens with an exploration of the history of a particular ingredient, its uses and health benefits, and then delves into the complex recipes. While they are challenging, each is laid out step by step together with an itemized list of required implements and dishes, finishing with a drawing showing how to plate the dish. A thorough read through and you’re set. Along the way, you’ll learn techniques and flavour combinations that will stand you in good stead whenever you cook. Bonus: wine recommendations for almost every recipe.
Reviewed by Judith Lane, food and wine writer
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Soft cover 256 pages $29.95
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Simply Bill By Bill Granger
Once you’ve experienced one of Bill Granger’s cookbooks, you’ll be hooked. Fortunately, Granger has just published Simply Bill, a fourth for our collections.
If you don’t know Bill, allow me to introduce you. Bill Granger is Australian, a self-taught cook who opened the first of his three restaurants in Sidney at age 22 (this one didn’t have a kitchen) and launched a TV series, bills food, in 2004. He cooks at home everyday for his young family, working always from the belief that "what we really need is very simple – our health and time to enjoy our friends, loved ones and ourselves. For me, food manages to pull all of these things together. Food is my great pleasures: it anchors all the parts of my life."
Bill’s latest collection of recipes is designed for pure enjoyment: good basic ingredients and uncomplicated instructions resulting in pleasing, flavourful quick-to-table meals to enjoy with friends and family.
Whether you’re pulling off a dinner party or bent on feeding fussing kids, Bill has recipes for all. Kid stuff? Bill’s got three little ones and knows what sells like Fish Fingers with Parmesan Crust and Oven-Baked Fries, Rigatoni and Chicken Bolognese, Pita Pizza and Berry Butterfly Cakes. Entertaining? Marinated King Prawns, a Simple Roast Chicken, Gnocchi with Fresh Tomato Sauce, and Figs and Raspberries with Fresh Ricotta are just the ticket.
Bill’s books are as much a pleasure to look at as to cook from and Simply Bill is no exception. It’s beautifully illustrated with inspiring photos of each dish and pictures of Bill, his family and friends at the market, at table and more. Inspiring indeed. That’s Bill.
Reviewed by Judith Lane, food and wine writer
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Soft cover 181 pages $23.95
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The Soup Peddler’s Slow & Difficult Soups By David Ansel
David Ansel’s The Soup Peddler’s Slow & Difficult Soups is as much a novel/biography/how-to book as a cookbook. It’s a delight to read – and as warm and nourishing – as the soups he peddles.
In his words, Ansel called the book "slow and difficult in reaction to the "quick and easy" bent of our food culture" distancing himself and his soups from fast food and convenience food although to my mind, leftover second-day soup couldn’t be faster or easier.
The book introduces us to David, his early life and the momentous shift when after college and a stab at corporate life, he decamps, eventually winding up that "aha" moment realizing that the one thing can do and likes to do, is make soup. And so he launches his new – and eventually – successful career peddling soup via bicycle.
Each chapter measures a month in his first year as struggling soup maker/peddler, each one an engaging romp underpinned with a few fine soup recipes. Of course each of those – like Smoked Duck and Andouille Gumbo, Caldo de Pollo, South Austin Chili and Saffron Risotto Soup – comes with a story and a meeting of some of David’s colourful customers in soup-city, Austin, Texas.
David today? Well, you’ll have to read the book.
Reviewed by Judith Lane, food and wine writer
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Soft cover 262 pages $29.
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Young & Hungry By Dave Lieberman
On reading Dave Lieberman’s Young & Hungry – More Than 100 Recipes for Cooking Fresh and Affordable Food for Everyone, I was unprepared for how charmed and taken I’d be by this book. His casual, breezy approach, engaging manner and delivery hooked me as much as the simple and delicious recipes that are suited to every occasion from dinner with the gang to breakfasts, BBQs and romantic dining ‡ deux.
Learning to cook by watching his stay-at-home dad, Lieberman parlayed this into cooking and good times with college friends and hasn’t looked back. Cooking is still about good times with friends and family and it’s these memories that continue to fuel his cooking and entertaining. Today he’s host of his own Food Network cooking show and works as a personal chef in New York.
This is an ideal book to give to a new cook but those of us who know our way around a kitchen will love Young & Hungry for its, stress-free, foolproof, easy-to-follow recipes that deliver every time.
Chapters are laid out by theme: Casual Sit-Downs, Dinner for Two, Lazy Mornings, Cooking for a Crowd, Happy Hour and so on with a selection of starter, mains, sides, one-dish meals and desserts for each. Of course mixing and matching is inevitable – and fun. How about a Classic Mesclun Salad followed by Penne with Pink Vodkas Sauce and Super Snickers Brownies? Or Pineapple Upside-Down Cake? Maybe Greek Salad, Moroccan-Style Lamb Kabobs and Raspberry Cream Parfaits? I think we pulled from seven chapters for these. Anyway you get the idea. Simple and good. Enjoy.
Reviewed by Judith Lane, food and wine writer |

Hardcover
512 pages
$50 |
Tamasin’s Kitchen Bible By Tamasin Day-Lewis
Subtitled ‘The One and Only Book for Every Cook’, Tamasin’s Kitchen Bible just might well be. Tamasin Day-Lewis, one of Britain’s most highly regarded food writers and cookbook author, has set out to produce a “one-stop” book, good for any cook at any stage or any level from outright beginner to pro.
And she’s succeeded. This is a “look-no-further book”. From stocking a basic kitchen with utensils and food stuffs to a quick read on what’s in season month-to-month, Day-Lewis gets things cooking with easy-peasy things that even a child could confidently tackle like pancakes, cookies and fudge. Then it’s on to mastering simple everyday dishes – eggs, pasta and roasts – before zipping into a giddily useful chapter on all things Christmas, then it’s the classics and winds up with the ‘serious skills’ like bread. That’s as scary and complicated as it gets.
Practical tips abound such as how to time a meal so that everything is ready at once, and how to wow that special someone. See? Practical indeed.
And then there is the stuff of instant addictions like the grilled Bombay vegetable sandwich (mashed potatoes, tomatoes, onions, chutney, cheese and masala) that is so utterly deliciously habit-forming (and worth the price of the book just for this) at breakfast, lunch, dinner, as a hangover cure, anytime. Believe me, you’ll always have mashed potatoes on hand.
Reviewed by Judith Lane, food and wine writer
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Soft cover
95 pages
$35.95 |
Modelling Fairies in Sugar
By Frances McNaughton
Fanciful, delightful, magical. Modelling Fairies in Sugar is all of these and more. How about do-able? In this book, teacher and author Frances McNaughton, expert in the art of sugarcraft, is wonderfully motivational.
Equipped with the appropriate tools and ingredients (they’re all listed together with sources), anyone with a modicum of patience and attention to detail can conjure up these whimsical and lovely sugar creatures.
Each fairy – there are many to choose from like the sleeping baby fairy, the sweet pea fairy and the holly elf to name a few – can be made in a single session. While they are edible, some have wires, and are best used to decorate cakes or as display pieces.
Lovely as they are to look at and read about as they come ‘alive’ on the pages, the ultimate reward would be fabricating one of these wee creatures for oneself.
Reviewed by Judith Lane, food and wine writer |
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Hardcover
294 pages
$39.95 |
Daisy Cooks!
By Daisy Martinez
Daisy Martinez’ new book Daisy Cooks! Latin Flavors That Will Rock Your World delivers on that count and more.
The recipes and Daisy’s stories are equally bold, flavourful and exuberant: there’s nothing shy about Daisy or her recipes. “Bold, sassy, ..colourful, ..full of fun” she says adding “It’s a party on your plate.” And it is.
Brooklyn-born to Puerto Rican parents, Martinez’ extended family is from Spain, Central America and other parts of the Spanish-speaking world. It’s these roots and these flavours that infuse the Latin-inspired recipes in Daisy Cooks!
So what’s Daisy cooking? Recipes that have been gathered from her cooking show which means most can be made in less than 30 minutes and from ingredients that are readily available in most grocery stores. Tops are her “Top Ten Hits”, recipes that will become staples in your repertoire too that Daisy assures us that once tried, they’ll change the way you cook forever. Her heavenly pollo asado, roast chicken with garlic rub, and yellow rice now regularly grace my kitchen.
Nothing makes Martinez happier than cooking for family and friends. Although she’s furthered her art with formal chef’s training, she’s at her exuberant best cooking when cooking the food that she grew up with. Among these are sure-fire hits are Daisy’s version of paella, twice-fried green plantain chips, savoury empanadas, stuffed artichokes, shrimp and string beans, and a luscious Spanish almond cake. Each section and recipe in Daisy Cooks! is embodied with heartwarming stories and anecdotes. Bonus: quick tips for variations of most of the recipes, making them endlessly adaptable.
Reviewed by Judith Lane, food and wine writer |
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Hardcover 322 pages $34.95
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Cooking at Home on Rue Tatin By Susan Herrmann Loomis
If you’ve ever wanted to inject a little French flare into your everyday lifestyle, there’s no better way than to immerse yourself into author/chef Susan Hermann Loomis’ latest cookbook, Cooking at Home on Rue Tatin, a memoir with recipes.
You’ll feel at home on Rue Tatin too, a street in the small Normandy town where Hermann Loomis currently lives as she takes us along cycling through the neighbourhood shopping for provisions, then cooking for her family and friends. Each recipe in the book has a tale to tell; each connects Hermann Loomis to a special friend or acquaintance. Along the way, she stresses the importance of French cooking techniques and how once learned, they are effortlessly incorporated into all cooking, turning simple ingredients into extraordinary eating. To that end, the recipes in Cooking at Home on Rue Tatin are technique-oriented but not difficult or time consuming, more they are simply natural progressions that yield extraordinary results.
The French make the most of mealtimes gathering together with friends and family for leisurely evenings. Cooking at Home on Rue Tatin shows us how to entertain the French way from The ApÈritif Hour through soup and first courses, to breads, pastries and preserves. Each flavourful recipe like Leek Potage, the Vintner’s Wife’s Pork Chops, Savory Beef Stew or Lemon Meringue Tart is prefaced with a tale of the friend who inspired it, perhaps a chat about farmers’ markets, and useful tips such as "how to eat like the French". Along the way, Hermann Loomis inspires with her warmth and approachable style, personifying the simplicity Cooking at Home on Rue Tatin.
Reviewed by Judith Lane, food and wine writer |
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